[NAFEX] Codling Moth Control --karen's
arboretum at homeorchardsociety.org
Mon Apr 7 12:10:27 EDT 2008
i only have a riding lawn mower at my disposal - so in fall after leaf
drop i do a final mowing to shred up the leaves as best i can and
shoot them into the alleys, and then either compost over top of them,
or lime (a la Mr. Phillips) to speed the decomposition. i also do a
lot of mulching during winter in the rows with non- fruit tree
shredded leaves from the nearby college groundskeepers, and i like to
think that helps too, physically blocking any spores that might have
caught hold to the soil surface or the dropped fruit tree leaves under
the mulch. if only i could leave my spring grass long and wavy to
catch the spores too, but i have to mow to allow for visitor access,
as we are a demonstration orchard.
thanks for the links,
oregon city, OR - zone 8a and wet
On Apr 6, 2008, at 8:58 PM, <dmnorton at royaloakfarmorchard.com> <dmnorton at royaloakfarmorchard.com
> Are you removing your fallen leaves from the area where your trees
> are? Scab overwinters on the dead leaves and if you remove them or
> at least mulch them up really good, you will eliminate any
> overwintering scab and half the battle is won. A short article
> entitled "Organic disease control for apples. David Rosenberger,
> Cornell Univ. 2007." can be found at http://www.nysaes.cornell.edu/ent/scaffolds/2007/070319.html#disease
> . He covers the use of LLS (liquid lime sulfur) after a rainfall
> that might be of help to your situation. Hope this helps!
> Dennis Norton
> Royal Oak Farm Orchard
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Karen Tillou
> To: North American Fruit Explorers
> Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2008 11:58 AM
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Codling Moth Control --karen's
> well, scab. remember how i said i am a lazy sprayer? it goes for
> scab too. so much depends on our spring weather here. we don't get
> summer rain, so july/august scab is a non-issue. depending on our
> may/june though, we'll get those warm days with rain that heat up
> those spores. if i am being good and following the weather reports,
> and i can get a sulfur spray on with a good sticker (i'm still just
> using NU-FILM 17 - are there better ones on the OMRI list??) the
> last dry day before those rains start, i get good protection. the
> key with sulfur is that it's a prophylactic only, it doesn't stop
> scab that is already on your trees. using it that way, i've
> definitely reduced my scab in what could have been a bad year.
> for the last week though now it keeps hailing on the about to open
> pear blooms. it's a bit depressing. half of the buds (the ones
> facing up) are gone black and squidgy.
> oregon city, OR - zone 8a and wet
> On Apr 6, 2008, at 7:29 AM, Patsy King wrote:
>> I am so pleased to hear the details of your experiences with the
>> codling controls you've described. I had not heard from anybody
>> who had tried the CYD-X virus and did not even know that "Last
>> Call" was available yet or what its name was, just a description.
>> This info will help many growers. And thanks so much for the link
>> to the site for trying to calculate when to do the controls. I
>> knew it was online somewhere, but you've saved me lots of time
>> searching for it!!!
>> I'd be interested too to hear how your experiences have been with
>> scab. I would suspect your location would be even more scab prone
>> than mine.
>> People's experiences with the major apple problems would be a great
>> topic for articles in Pomona in my opinion, since so many people
>> grow apples.
>> Thanks again to all who've been giving their ideas...
>> patsy in SW oregon zone 7-8
>> Message: 4
>> Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2008 18:03:50 -0700
>> From: Karen Tillou <arboretum at homeorchardsociety.org>
>> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Codling Moth Control (Richard Moyer's)
>> To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex at lists.ibiblio.org>
>> <D521E733-9747-4BD5-8226-4B8FBCB550B8 at homeorchardsociety.org>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>> patsy - i have a maybe 100 apple trees that i manage organically here
>> in the pacific northwest.
>> the two uses for codling moth traps do not require different
>> lures, it is merely a matter of the number of traps you put out, as
>> you suspected. i use just a few traps to monitor the emerging
>> population each spring, but costs prevent me from buying two traps
>> each tree to trap them out....
>> there exists a product called "Last Call" that combines the codling
>> moth pheremone with a synthetic pyrethrin pesticide - you apply 5-10
>> "droplets" scattered on the branches of each tree (i think that was
>> the recommended #) - the male moths home in on the pheremone, but die
>> when they come in contact with the pesticide. it is not OMRI listed,
>> because of the pesticide, but is much less destructive to beneficial
>> bugs than spraying. if you have the time to apply the stuff, i think
>> it might be a good solution for a small orchard.
>> my experience with CYD-X has been on the positive side, for a small
>> orchard. a group of us with small numbers of trees got together and
>> split the cost of one bottle, which has a shelf life of 18 months if
>> you freeze it between uses. i have seen gradual reductions in my
>> codling moth populations over the three years of use, and that is
>> a once or twice per year spray regime (terribly lazy, i know) with no
>> other controls beyond religious removal of windfalls during the
>> harvest period.
>> my neighbor and his 20-30 big old trees has also been happy with his
>> one organic grower i know splurged on his $300 bottle of virus,
>> sprayed it intensively every week during the first and second
>> generation egg hatch periods, and so completely wiped out his
>> population that he has not had to spray for the two years since.
>> the thing with CYD-X is timing: it has only a 3 day life out in the
>> light, and must be injested by the larvae before they enter the
>> apples. which means the best time for them to do that is as they
>> their way out of their egg cases. WSU researchers Brunner and Hoyt
>> came up with a phenology model for the codling moth, linking degree
>> days to their egg hatching. this model is available online, where
>> can plug in a local weather station's data and find out when the eggs
>> are hatching, to better time your sprays. i use the site www.pnwpest.org/wea/
>> that has links to oregon, washington and idaho weather stations.
>> (are there other sites out there for different parts of the country?)
>> i think part of my slow results from using the virus are from poor
>> timing, as it is inevitably raining the days i need to spray....
>> hope this helps
>> oregon city, OR - zone 8a and wet
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