[NAFEX] Codling Moth Control --karen's

Karen Tillou arboretum at homeorchardsociety.org
Mon Apr 7 12:10:27 EDT 2008


i only have a riding lawn mower at my disposal - so in fall after leaf  
drop i do a final mowing to shred up the leaves as best i can and  
shoot them into the alleys, and then either compost over top of them,  
or lime (a la Mr. Phillips) to speed the decomposition.  i also do a  
lot of mulching during winter in the rows with non- fruit tree  
shredded leaves from the nearby college groundskeepers, and i like to  
think that helps too, physically blocking any spores that might have  
caught hold to the soil surface or the dropped fruit tree leaves under  
the mulch.  if only i could leave my spring grass long and wavy to  
catch the spores too, but i have to mow to allow for visitor access,  
as we are a demonstration orchard.
thanks for the links,
karen

oregon city, OR - zone 8a and wet




On Apr 6, 2008, at 8:58 PM, <dmnorton at royaloakfarmorchard.com> <dmnorton at royaloakfarmorchard.com 
 > wrote:

> Karen,
>
> Are you removing your fallen leaves from the area where your trees  
> are?  Scab overwinters on the dead leaves and if you remove them or  
> at least mulch them up really good, you will eliminate any  
> overwintering scab and half the battle is won.  A short article  
> entitled "Organic disease control for apples.  David Rosenberger,  
> Cornell Univ.  2007." can be found at http://www.nysaes.cornell.edu/ent/scaffolds/2007/070319.html#disease 
> .  He covers the use of LLS (liquid lime sulfur) after a rainfall  
> that might be of help to your situation.  Hope this helps!
>
> Dennis Norton
> Royal Oak Farm Orchard
> http://www.royaloakfarmorchard.com
> http://www.theorchardkeeper.blogspot.com
> http://www.revivalhymn.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Karen Tillou
> To: North American Fruit Explorers
> Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2008 11:58 AM
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Codling Moth Control --karen's
>
> well, scab.  remember how i said i am a lazy sprayer?  it goes for  
> scab too.  so much depends on our spring weather here.  we don't get  
> summer rain, so july/august scab is a non-issue.  depending on our  
> may/june though, we'll get those warm days with rain that heat up  
> those spores.  if i am being good and following the weather reports,  
> and i can get a sulfur spray on with a good sticker (i'm still just  
> using NU-FILM 17 - are there better ones on the OMRI list??) the  
> last dry day before those rains start, i get good protection.  the  
> key with sulfur is that it's a prophylactic only, it doesn't stop  
> scab that is already on your trees.  using it that way, i've  
> definitely reduced my scab in what could have been a bad year.
>
> for the last week though now it keeps hailing on the about to open  
> pear blooms.  it's a bit depressing.  half of the buds (the ones  
> facing up) are gone black and squidgy.
>
> karen
> oregon city, OR - zone 8a and wet
>
> On Apr 6, 2008, at 7:29 AM, Patsy King wrote:
>> I am so pleased to hear the details of your experiences with the  
>> codling controls you've described.  I had not heard from anybody  
>> who had tried the CYD-X virus  and did not even know that "Last  
>> Call" was available yet or what its name was,  just a description.   
>> This info will help many growers. And thanks so much for the link  
>> to the site for trying to calculate when to do the controls.  I  
>> knew it was online somewhere, but you've saved me lots of time  
>> searching for it!!!
>>
>> I'd be interested too to hear how your experiences have been with  
>> scab.  I would suspect your location would be even more scab prone  
>> than mine.
>>
>> People's experiences with the major apple problems would be a great  
>> topic for articles in Pomona in my opinion, since so many people  
>> grow apples.
>>
>> Thanks again to all who've been giving their ideas...
>> patsy  in SW oregon zone 7-8
>>
>> Message: 4
>> Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2008 18:03:50 -0700
>> From: Karen Tillou <arboretum at homeorchardsociety.org>
>> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Codling Moth Control (Richard Moyer's)
>> To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex at lists.ibiblio.org>
>> Message-ID:
>>        <D521E733-9747-4BD5-8226-4B8FBCB550B8 at homeorchardsociety.org>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>>
>> patsy - i have a maybe 100 apple trees that i manage organically here
>> in the pacific northwest.
>>
>> the two uses for codling moth traps do not require different  
>> pheremone
>> lures, it is merely a matter of the number of traps you put out, as
>> you suspected.  i use just a few traps to monitor the emerging
>> population each spring, but costs prevent me from buying two traps  
>> for
>> each tree to trap them out....
>>
>> there exists a product called "Last Call" that combines the codling
>> moth pheremone with a synthetic pyrethrin pesticide - you apply 5-10
>> "droplets" scattered on the branches of each tree (i think that was
>> the recommended #) - the male moths home in on the pheremone, but die
>> when they come in contact with the pesticide.  it is not OMRI listed,
>> because of the pesticide, but is much less destructive to beneficial
>> bugs than spraying.  if you have the time to apply the stuff, i think
>> it might be a good solution for a small orchard.
>>
>> my experience with CYD-X has been on the positive side, for a small
>> orchard.  a group of us with small numbers of trees got together and
>> split the cost of one bottle, which has a shelf life of 18 months if
>> you freeze it between uses.  i have seen gradual reductions in my
>> codling moth populations over the three years of use, and that is  
>> from
>> a once or twice per year spray regime (terribly lazy, i know) with no
>> other controls beyond religious removal of windfalls during the
>> harvest period.
>> my neighbor and his 20-30 big old trees has also been happy with his
>> results.
>>
>> one organic grower i know splurged on his $300 bottle of virus,
>> sprayed it intensively every week during the first and second
>> generation egg hatch periods, and so completely wiped out his
>> population that he has not had to spray for the two years since.
>>
>> the thing with CYD-X is timing: it has only a 3 day life out in the  
>> UV
>> light, and must be injested by the larvae before they enter the
>> apples.  which means the best time for them to do that is as they  
>> chew
>> their way out of their egg cases.  WSU researchers Brunner and Hoyt
>> came up with a phenology model for the codling moth, linking degree
>> days to their egg hatching.  this model is available online, where  
>> you
>> can plug in a local weather station's data and find out when the eggs
>> are hatching, to better time your sprays.  i use the site www.pnwpest.org/wea/
>>   that has links to oregon, washington and idaho weather stations.
>> (are there other sites out there for different parts of the country?)
>>
>> i think part of my slow results from using the virus are from poor
>> timing, as it is inevitably raining the days i need to spray....
>>
>> hope this helps
>> karen
>>
>> oregon city, OR - zone 8a and wet
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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