[NAFEX] Wrapping trees - wasps

Jackie Jameson jacqueline.jameson at gmail.com
Wed Feb 14 14:56:50 EST 2007


So interplant shrubs/perennials that bloom at forsythia time to attract the
Spring Typhia to the area needed.
Good plan!

On 2/14/07, BRosholdt <rosholdt at erols.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
>   Subject:
> Re: [NAFEX] Wrapping trees for protection - Japanese Beetles  From:
> "Jackie Jameson" <jacqueline.jameson at gmail.com><jacqueline.jameson at gmail.com>  Date:
>
> Wed, 14 Feb 2007 11:56:03 -0500  To:
> "North American Fruit Explorers" <nafex at lists.ibiblio.org><nafex at lists.ibiblio.org>
> I really like the idea of recruiting more wasps to do the job.  Why do you
> use forsythia over other plants?  Bloom time, easy to grow?
>
> -------------------------------------------------------
>
> Nope.  Wasp food!  see URL (http://www.drmcbug.com/)  for Spring Tiphia
> wasp info.  Here is a quote:  "The spring Tiphia normally emerges when
> bridal wreath spirea are in bloom. After a brief period of feeding and
> mating, the female wasp begins to hunt for Japanese beetle grubs to
> parasitize. The female wasp is able to detect the presence of grubs in an
> area probably by scent, and burrows into the ground in search of a grub.
> Once she finds a grub in its earthen cell, a brief struggle ensues. The
> female wasp stings the grub, causing a temporary paralysis that lasts about
> 30 minutes. She then prepares an area on the underside of the now paralyzed
> grub between the thorax and abdomen to receive a single egg. She rasps the
> area with the tip of her abdomen and kneads it with her mandibles, then
> attaches an egg to this softened spot. By wearing away the membrane of the
> grub and making it thinner, the wasp larva, which hatches about 7 days
> later, has little problem piercing the skin of the grub in order to feed.
> The female wasp can normally parasitize 1 to 2 grubs daily in this manner,
> and can lay a total of between 40 and 70 eggs over her lifespan of 30 to 40
> days."
>
> Dr. McBug assures me that the Tiphia is "in the environment" but doesn't
> fly too far, and my tulip poplars are 60' in the air.  What else is easy to
> grow that blooms at time that the Tiphia needs to eat?  Forsythia!  Choke
> Cherry, too.  And some other trees - see the website.  The wasps are really
> expensive or I'd've had some released. already.
> Barb
>
>
> On 2/14/07, BRosholdt <rosholdt at erols.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > > Subject: > Re: [NAFEX] Wrapping trees for protection
> > > From: > list at ginda.us
> > > Date: > Tue, 13 Feb 2007 23:32:49 -0500
> > > To: > North American Fruit Explorers < nafex at lists.ibiblio.org>
> > >
> > > On Feb 13, 2007, at 8:32 PM, BRosholdt wrote:
> > >
> > >> Barb here in Zone 7a(?), central Virginia  (couldn't prove global
> > warming at my orchard - we just had two weeks with temperatures
> > >> dipping to the single digits more than twice, and maybe more to come
> > - all with no snow cover whatsoever!)
> > >>
> > >> The real nuisance in my orchard is the Japanese Beetle. . . .
> > >>
> > > Have you tried milky spore?  Or hormone traps?
> > >
> > > I put down milky spore when I moved in.  Most of my neighbors treat
> > > their lawns for "grubs" with one poison or another.  The result is a
> > > very manageable number of japanese beetles that don't do much damage.
> > >
> > > Years ago my father tried a trap.  The downside is that you attract
> > > beetles from all around (you really want to talk your neighbor into
> > > doing this) but he bagged pounds and pounds of beetles with little
> > > effort.
> > >
> > > Ginda
> > >
> > > ------------------------
> > I am sorry I wasn't more forthcoming about my Jap Beetle history.  I
> > have put down Milky Spore several years ago, and have not seen much
> > benefit, but we have heavy clay, are surrounded by woods and they seems
> > to come out of the woods, too.  Last year I spread beneficial HB
> > nematodes all over everywhere under almost perfect conditions.  We have
> > clay soil, with compost on top (slight incorporation) following
> > fertilizer apps.  Perhaps the Milky Spore was old/not well placed.  I
> > could believe I need to redo that.  I am currently working on planting
> > Forsythia to lure more Spring Tiphia wasps (Jap Beetle parasitizer) down
> > from the Tulip Poplars, feed 'em and get 'em working harder!  In spite
> > of all of this, I am losing all peaches and plums, some raspberries, and
> > the beetles totally defoliate the apple orchard by August.  Not good.
> >
> > Traps don't bring more or cause less damage, but since I am only there
> > on weekends, they are less effective.  I have several ideas.  Surround
> > has been a temporary help, but at some point you have to not spray on
> > the fuzzy fruit so the white stuff wears off sort of, before harvest.
> > Bagging fruit doesn't seem to prevent the JBs eating foliage.  Extension
> > says the beetles are out of balance and I am going to need to spray
> > something like Imidan (?) but I am concerned about the effect of a
> > general insecticide spray on my HB nematodes.  They were a little
> > expensive to just kill off, even in patches, and I can't really spray
> > the everbearing raspberries.
> >
> > Has anyone ever tried any of these:
> >
> > 1.  Japanese Beetles (JB) blended with water in a blender, let sit for a
> > few hours, strained and sprayed the result (an old Organic Gardening
> > remedy) on the plants.
> > 2.  Completely wrapping the trees in something.  Especially the very
> > young trees that have a very negative response to defoliation (limb
> > extension, disease, and/or death).
> >
> >
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