[NAFEX] Re: Grafting Wax, etc.

longdistshtr longdistshtr at shtc.net
Wed Mar 17 11:35:30 EST 2004


Doc Farwell's sets up just like Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Glue and I got
tired of buying it every couple of years.  I just use Elmer's for a fraction
of the cost of Doc's. I worried about to toxicity at first but they both
work equally well, they both set up in the container and become useless
after about a year. I've used latex tub sealer at times which will also set
up it in its container but it works for me as well as either of  the others.
I choose to spend more time on matching cambium layers and timing the
grafting season than on choosing sealing materials. I've used masking tape,
rubber splicing tape, melted paraffin, melted beeswax,  melted rosin,
Parafilm, grafting wax, modeling clay, silicone rubber sealant and strips of
plastic shopping bags. They have all worked if I stuck to proven grafting
technique, matching cambiums, and not experimenting with trying to deviate
from grafting times suggested by experienced grafters.
Here in zone 7/8, I have had miserable failures if I didn't consider that
direct sunlight on the graft will provide too much heat for proper union. As
has been suggested, I believe that about 70-80°F is correct. Aluminum foil
seems to provide enough shade but I still worry about heat conduction
through aluminum. Shading grafts seems to be more important here than it was
in New Jersey.
I suspect that moon phases have an effect on graft success, but I haven't
proved anything that substantiates that hypothesis.
I despise having to wait a year to determine whether a graft sealant works.
I would suggest that one should  use whatever works for him/her and use it
for a lifetime; rather than bouncing around as I did, trying to find
something easier, better and cheaper. The jury is still out deciding which
sealant fits these criteria as far as I'm concerned.
Doc Lisenby






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