[NAFEX] successful bud grafts
hartmansfruittrees at wport.com
Tue Aug 17 22:55:53 EDT 2004
Stefan Brandle wrote:
> Possible issues:
> * You can't bud peaches from actively growing wood. I don't think that
> is true, but maybe I'm wrong.
Yes, you can bud peaches from actively growing wood. You don't want to take the buds from the tip (too soft) or too close from where the branch
started growing. Move up 3 or 4 buds from where it started growing from where the new growth started from the other branch. Look for nice
> * I used the wrong sized buds. That's possible. The bud cuttings I made
> were about an inch long and 1/4-1/3 inch wide. Left just a bit of wood
> underneath the bud.
Some say to flick out the bit of wood from underneath. Other say to leave it in. It doesn't seem to matter. Just make sure the portion which
goes up into the bud itself is still there. If it is hollow - no growth.
> * I let the buds dry out in transit. Don't think that's a problem. They
> went straight from cutting to my mouth, and were taken out only when
> ready to be inserted.
Why put them in your mouth? I never cut the bud until I am ready to insert it. From the time I cut it off the bud stick until it is in place is
about 3 to 5 seconds.
> * The buds dried out on the tree. That's possible. I did use parafilm. I
> left the leaf petiole (correct word for leaf stem?), but removed the
> leaf proper. I didn't use Doc Farwell's grafting paint, but I now have it.
All I use in covering the buds is budding strips. (1/4 inch wide rubber bands will work too.) I make sure all the cut portion is covered up.
Only the bud itself and the handle (leaf stem) is exposed.
> * Other thoughts?
I start my budding of stone fruits about the 20th of July here in Western Washington. From the 20th of July until about the first of August I
get the highest percent of takes. Later budding of stone fruits results in lower percentages. Plenty of water to the rootstock you are budding
to is a plus.
Western Washington (Lower Puget Sound Region)
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